December Surf Mishun

    So seven days have just been enjoyed (once again) in an amazingly random place on the Oregon coast (the real OC).  I arrived last Friday evening.  Tonight, this Friday evening, is the first time clouds appeared in the sky.  Two of the days were filled with massive, unpaddleable swell and I got to see some towsurf action go down.  Dudes were ripping high speed turns on this little mountain shaped steamroller of a right.  The other 5 days during my stay each gave me  at least one wave, which is all you need.  

     Well, all you need is Love, according to the Beatles.    And according to many other people and me, Love is everything flowing around and through us.  Therefore, since a wave made of water has a flow more powerful than our feeble carcasses could think....waves are Love.  

      It was a frigid low fahrenheit thirties everyday with a crisp offshore wind blowin' like tapioca froth out over the fifty fahrenheit degree ocean.  Add that low lying northern northern hemisphere winter sun and I' am just a stoked bloke runny egg yolk.  

     Today was the sealer of the deal with a light southerly rip, tide sucking out, and peaks coming through wherever I awaited.  I fluffed a whole lot of good waves which always happens but is supposed too.  It gives us a chance to laugh at ourselves...after all we are all pretty goofy lookingacting creatures when you think about it.  The waves that were granted to me were just so clean and with such an elegant shape...the work of a master craftswoman for suuuuure.      

    There was a cool portobello mushroom lookin' jellyfish in the water that I had never seen before.  I just thought of making jellyfish lamps...I'm sure someone has already thought of that but right now was the first time I  ever thought of it.  

   There were a few waves during this mission that I paddled over passing right next to the pure zone, seconds from being eaten and as I punched through the back in ninja-duck position, the curl of each wave would play in silence, burned into my brain like when you stare directly at a bright light.  

    Bright light? Waves? Love?  The complex, chaotic silliness that is being. 

    So the moral of this half baked tale is that it does not matter what you are doing, just as long as you remember to play like a child (but thankfully for me, I'm now equipped with slightly bigger muscles) and get silly.  Dancing is good all the time, especially in small groups, it allows the energy continue to move freely throught space and time.  Fascinating stuff...

     If you have  two hundred dollars lying around you can go purchase Carl Jung's Red Book and mindsurf it for the rest of your existence probably.  I was fortunate enough  to be placed in the universe in a space where a fresh copy of it was opened for the first time, at that same time also.  Just two mother aged women giddy as when they were schoolgirls, and me, the funny hat wearing tan kid with a childish grin on his face who was amazed at the power of going with the flow.  The coolest things happen at just the right moments.  Take a half hour walk on the beach, find an old washed up little kid's bicycle and carry it up to this pointy rock outcrop and place it on top like a flag, on the way back, pop into a cool looking used bookshop, grab a book about the native plants of Kauai out of the free book box, and then watch this woman bring this massive red book up to the counter for purchase.  "What's that you say? Carl Jung?" 

 Seriously...It is easier to be happy than we thought, and you need barely anything, just a smile and a belly full of healthy food.